From idea to prototype: story of a leather deck holder
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Have you ever wondered how long it takes a craftsman to go from an idea to a finished product? In this article, we’ll show you the process we followed to create our first leather deck box, mistakes included. Our goal isn’t to create the perfect object on the first try, but to highlight what doesn’t work and look for practical solutions—maybe even learning something new along the way.
If, like us, you love card games and enjoy the noble art of leatherworking, you’re in the right place: brief instructions and video tutorials will guide you through the journey, helping you avoid our mistakes while making your own!
Like every good recipe, let’s start with the ingredients.
Materials:
- Leather with a minimum thickness of 2 mm
- Waxed thread—we chose black, but you can use any color you like
- Satin fabric for lining
- Four neodymium magnets, at least 10 mm x 1 mm in size (round or square, it doesn’t matter)
Tools:
- Two leather sewing needles
- A metal ruler with both metric and imperial measurements
- Cardboard, paper, and a pencil
- A cutter
- Resolene and a sponge for application
- V-gouge tool
- Artiglio glue
- Bone folder
- Long-nose pliers
- Scalpel
- Compass for circles
- Small fleshing knife
- Super Glue
- Leather groover
- Edge beveler
- Awl
- Edge burnisher
- Hole punch pliers
- Edge dye for leather
- Thread trimmer and a lighter
Ready? Let’s begin!
1. Planning
Sketching out what we want to create is crucial, as it helps us define the number of components needed and their key characteristics. In our case, the deck box will be dedicated to a game called Magic: The Gathering, which uses a deck of 100 cards. Normally, we’d measure the deck to determine the box dimensions, but since we already own a cardboard version, we simply measured that instead. Leather is thicker than cardboard, so we added 0.5 cm to ensure the final product is spacious enough.
To make the box more durable, we decided to use a single strip of leather for the front, back, bottom, and lid. We also wanted it to be belt-friendly, so we planned for a loop wide enough to fit a belt. This meant we needed only three additional pieces: the two side panels and the back loop.
Component dimensions:
- Long strip: 425 mm long, 80 mm wide
- Two side panels: 100 mm long, 60 mm wide
- Loop: 70 mm long, 50 mm wide
FIRST MISTAKE: We initially chose leather that was only 1 mm thick—too flexible for this purpose. Additionally, we designed a lid that was 65 mm long, which turned out to be excessive. Since the bottom measures 60 mm and the front and back panels are each 1 mm thick, the lid only needed to cover 62 mm. Those extra 3 mm prevented the prototype from closing properly.
FIRST SOLUTION: Opt for 2 mm thick leather to give the box greater stability and adjust the dimensions of the long strip accordingly. The strip should measure 424 mm to ensure the lid covers 64 mm (60 mm depth + 2 mm front panel thickness + 2 mm back panel thickness). The full calculation is as follows:
64 mm (lid) + 100 mm (front panel interior) + 100 mm (front panel exterior) + 100 mm (back panel) + 60 mm (bottom) = 424 mm.
2. Making Templates
Templates are cardboard cutouts that match the dimensions of the components you need. Cardboard is easier to measure and cut than leather, and templates speed up the cutting process, especially when multiple identical pieces are needed. They’re also helpful if your leather piece has imperfections, as you can lay the template over the leather to select the best sections to use.
3. Shaping the Leather
Now that we know how much leather we need, we can set aside small pieces for testing. Even with the best tools and products on the market, you can’t be sure of the outcome until you experiment. For example, you might find that a tool you’ve used before isn’t suitable for your current leather, or that one product works better than another.
In the next video, we use a scrap piece to test the V-gouge tool on our leather. The V-gouge is used to carve out the inside of a piece that needs to be folded into a specific shape.
Since the long strip will be folded four times, we’ll use the gouge to make it easier to shape, carving grooves at the following intervals:
- 100 mm from one end (for the bottom of the main box)
- 60 mm from the first groove (to complete the bottom)
- 100 mm from the second groove (for the lid)
- 65 mm from the third groove (for the front panel)
Note: As mentioned in Step 1, the last groove should actually be at 64 mm, not 65 mm.
4. Protecting the Leather
Leather stains very easily, so it needs to be treated with a protective product. In the next video, we test Resolene on a scrap piece of leather and compare it to regular shoe polish to evaluate the aesthetic differences. We preferred Resolene and applied it to the prepared leather pieces using a sponge. While we usually apply it with slow, even strokes for uniform coverage, this time we dabbed it on for a “brushed” effect.
SECOND MISTAKE: Although Resolene is highly effective, it completely eliminated the soft, suede-like texture that was the most appealing feature of our leather. It hardened the surface, giving it an artificial look.
SECOND SOLUTION: Find a product specifically designed for delicate leather, preferably a spray. The pressure from the sponge likely contributed to stiffening the material.
5. Lining the Leather
Testing is also key when it comes to lining. In the next video, we apply Artiglio glue to the inside of the leather and attach burgundy satin, using scraps to ensure compatibility. We were concerned the glue might leave stains on the satin or that the fabric wouldn’t adhere well to the leather, but with the right pressure and a bone folder, we achieved a good result. We also tested how the satin behaved in areas where the leather would be folded.
To measure the amount of satin needed, we used the leather pieces as templates, then cut the satin, leaving at least 1 cm of excess on each side to trim after attaching it.
6. Adding Magnetic Closures
This step caused the most errors. At least we avoided the common mistake of positioning the magnets incorrectly; we made sure they were oriented to attract, not repel.
We wanted two magnets inside the box and two on the flap, placed as close to the bottom as possible. For the two internal magnets, we marked their positions with a compass and carved out spaces using a small fleshing knife, securing them with Super Glue.
THIRD MISTAKE: Initially, we planned to embed the two front magnets within the flap, cutting small pockets into the leather with a scalpel. While hiding the magnets seemed aesthetically pleasing, we overlooked the strength of their attraction. The leather’s thickness prevented the magnets from adhering properly.
THIRD SOLUTION: Functionality must come first, with aesthetics as a secondary consideration. We decided to mount the front magnets in the same way as the back ones—inside the flap. This made them visible only when the box is open, leaving room for a decorative element on the front. At the same time, the distance between the magnets was eliminated, ensuring proper closure.
7. Punching Stitching Holes
A leather groover allows us to create decorative lines without measuring, as it traces a shallow groove at a consistent distance from the edge. Using an edge beveler, we shaped the edges of each component.
Before punching the actual holes with hole punch pliers, we marked their positions with an awl. Typically, we space the holes about a quarter-inch (6.25 mm) apart, but we ensure every corner has a hole, even if it means adding tighter stitching. This improves the stability of the finished piece, keeping its shape intact despite external stresses.
When marking holes on the long strip, align the side panels in their intended positions to ensure the holes line up correctly. Misaligned holes lead to crooked stitching.
8. Finishing the Edges and Sewing the Loop
We further rounded all edges using a wooden edge burnisher, then applied edge dye with either a brush or a special applicator pen. We used an affordable bottle with a built-in nozzle, which spared our brushes and made application easier.
With all components ready, we started assembling! First, we sewed the back loop, using straight stitches instead of cross-stitches to allow more room for a belt to pass through without compromising durability. It’s essential to use waxed thread; regular thread won’t hold up as well against impacts or the box’s weight.
9. Attaching the Side Panels to the Main Strip
Hand-stitching is no easy task, but we condensed all the basics into the next video, demonstrating both cross-stitching and straight stitching (the saddle stitch).
Our prototype is finished! While it’s far from perfect, it’s not too far from what we plan to sell in our shop. You might be wondering: why go through all this work for an object you can’t sell or gift? Because prototyping is a necessary step. Only by bringing your idea to life can you identify the practical challenges, decide what’s worth pursuing, and what might be better left as a dream—at least until you find a solution.
Soon, you’ll see the final version of the deck box in our store! In the meantime, if you have any doubts or difficulties, don’t hesitate to contact us. We’re happy to share our passion with you. And if this article helped you, we’d love to see photos of your creation! Reach out to us on social media or via email—we look forward to hearing from you.
Happy crafting!